Golf in East Lothian

The stretch of coast east of Edinburgh packs more great links into a few miles than almost anywhere on earth — and it is barely 30–45 minutes from the airport, which makes it the easiest world-class golf trip in Scotland to reach. You can base yourself in one village and play a different championship links every day.

Muirfield, home of the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers, is one of the greatest and fairest courses in the world and a regular Open host — visitor access is limited to certain days, so plan well ahead. North Berwick's West Linksis the opposite in spirit: quirky, ancient and joyous, with stone walls, blind shots and the original "Redan" par-3 that has been copied the world over.

Gullane No.1 climbs Gullane Hill for one of the best panoramas in golf, and The Renaissance Club — the modern home of the Genesis Scottish Open — sits just along the shore. At the eastern end, Dunbar is a classic, underrated shoreline links and an Open final-qualifying venue.

There is quality and value beyond the headliners too. Gullane has three courses on its hill — No. 2 shares the same springy turf and glorious views as No. 1 for a far keener fee — and at Aberlady, Craigielaw is the best of the modern links, a traditional Donald Steel design that plays far older than its years. Luffness New and Longniddry fill out one of the densest golf coasts on earth.

Greywalls, a Lutyens-designed country house beside Muirfield with gardens by Gertrude Jekyll and Albert Roux's Chez Roux restaurant, is the grand address of the coast. In North Berwick, The Marine overlooks the West Links, and the Nether Abbeyis a friendly, popular golfers' base. At Aberlady, Craigielawhas its own lodge right on the course, and Edinburgh's hotels are only 40 minutes away for those who want the city too.

Gullane and North Berwick are the ideal bases — pretty seaside towns full of golfers, with good hotels, pubs and restaurants, and everything within a 20-minute drive. Edinburgh itself is close enough to combine city and coast. It all pairs naturally with a trip across to Fife and St Andrews.

Base yourself on the coast and you are spoiled beyond the golf. North Berwick has the Scottish Seabird Centre and boat trips out to the Bass Rock and its vast gannet colony, the volcanic Berwick Law to climb, and the dramatic clifftop ruin of Tantallon Castle nearby. Gullane and Dirleton are pretty conservation villages — the Bonnie Badger in Gullane, run by chef Tom Kitchin, is a destination in itself — and Edinburgh, with its castle, Old Town and restaurants, is only 30–45 minutes away for a night in the city.