Golf in Fife

Fife is where the game grew up, and St Andrews is its capital. The Old Course is public land owned by the town — but getting on takes planning: enter the daily ballot (drawn two days ahead) or book an advance reservation released roughly a year out. There is no play on Sundays. If the ballot does not come through, the other St Andrews Links courses are excellent and far easier to secure — the New Course is rated by many locals as the best of the seven.

A few miles down the coast, Kingsbarns is a modern links with a sea view from every hole, and Dumbarnie — Clive Clark's acclaimed 2020 course above Largo Bay — is the most talked-about new links in the country. Both are premium tickets, and both are worth it.

For old-world charm and value, the East Neuk fishing villages deliver: Crail's Balcomie Links (one of the oldest clubs in the world) wraps around the rocks at Fife Ness, and Elie — where James Braid learned the game — has a submarine periscope on the first tee and no par-5s at all.

Along Largo Bay, the classic old links of Lundin and Leven — once a single continuous links, divided in 1909 — are proper Open Final Qualifying courses at a fraction of the marquee prices, and up on the north tip of Fife Scotscraig is a links-heathland hybrid and one of the oldest clubs anywhere. Few counties offer this much great, affordable golf.

Stay in the town of St Andrews itself to soak up the atmosphere — the university, the cathedral ruins, the West Sands beach and the R&A behind the 18th. It puts every Fife course within a short drive. The East Neuk villages of Crail, Anstruther and Elie make a quieter, characterful alternative. Dundee and Edinburgh airports are both easy hops away.

Pair Fife with a run at Carnoustie and Angus across the Tay, or see the best courses in Scotland.

St Andrews

The Old Course Hotel, overlooking the Road Hole 17th, is the landmark golf stay; the recently restored Rusacks looks straight down the 18th fairway, and Fairmont St Andrews is a resort just outside town with its own two courses. For the grandest address of all, the apartments of Hamilton Grand sit right beside the 18th green.

The East Neuk

For quieter, characterful nights, the Ship Inn on the beach at Elie and the small hotels and inns of Crail, Anstruther and Pittenweem put you in the prettiest fishing villages in Scotland, half an hour from St Andrews.

St Andrews is a joy off the course too — the medieval streets, the ruined cathedral and castle, Scotland's oldest university, and the long sweep of the West Sands (of Chariots of Firefame) behind the links, with the R&A clubhouse and the British Golf Museum right by the 18th. For food, the East Neuk fishing villages deliver: the multi-award-winning Anstruther Fish Bar, fresh seafood at the Crail and Pittenweem harbours, and cosy pubs in Elie and Lower Largo. It is one of the most rewarding corners of Scotland to spend an evening.